World Cruise--Koalas And Roos And Crocs, Oh My!

The Queen Anne is too large for the cruise ship accommodations in Cairns so we were anchored at a place called Yorkey’s Knob that is near Cairns. It’s a little inconvenient when you have to tender so many people to shore but there were a couple of large local boats that helped with transportation along with the ship’s tenders.

There’s always a story or two behind the naming of places in Australia. One that made sense was that a fisherman named George Lawson lived on a small hill in the area. He was originally form Yorkshire, England and was nicknamed Yorkey. Hill, or knob and Yorkey. It works.

Our tender operation went a bit more smoothly than it had in the last two tender situations and we only waited a half hour for our number to be called. It helped that we were on a ship’s excursion. Our five hour excursion would include a train ride to Karunda and a tour of the Rainforestation, a park that included koalas and kangaroos. We’d missed that opportunity in Brisbane because of the cyclone so I was glad we’d booked this one ahead.

A short bus ride in much appreciated A/C comfort (the day was already hot and humid at nine in the morning) and we arrived at the Kuranda Scenic Railway. We think this is the third time we’ve taken the train up the mountain to Kuranda. We’ve been there at least that many times, once with Bob driving on the narrow winding road that leads to it. A thrilling experience to say the least.

We waited for about fifteen minutes when a train arrival was announced but unfortunately it was a train that was originally delayed an hour and it wasn’t for us. We would have to wait another forty-five minutes in the heat for the next one. Our guide was quite anxious and was on the phone arranging with his boss how we would get the rest of the tour done on time without sacrificing too much. Thankfully our wait was mostly in the shade but every so often the little breeze we had would quit. I was surprised how well we all faired considering the average age of our cruising companions.

The train finally arrived and we boarded our coach car. The train has antique cars much like our Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railway does at home. While we were among the last to board, the seat at the front of the car was still empty. I think people didn’t realize there was a seat there. It was great since we had two windows, one beside us and one a little in front that was in the doorway. Nice breeze once we got going.

There is a lot of greenery and rock walls and tunnels in the hour and a half trip but there are also quite a few nice views of the valley and ocean below and a great view of the train as it makes its way around a large curve. We passed several waterfalls including one that the train stopped at to let people get out for a good picture. The falls were running full as there had been lots of rain preceding our arrival. We spent a lot of time reminiscing about our other trips here. Once with our son, Rob, when he was a student at James Cook University in Townsville and several visits on our own.

Upon our arrival in Karunda we all hustled to the waiting bus. Was it for the A/C or because we were behind schedule? I voted for both. It was a short distance to the Rainforestation Park. The rainforest here near Cairns is said to be the oldest in the world, estimated at 180 million years old. And I thought I was old.

It’s nice to visit a rainforest when it isn’t raining. Makes for much better pictures and drier feet. While there was a place to buy sandwiches or even a cooked meal or burger, there wasn’t any time planned for it. It was now noon and Bob was getting hungry. The line at the counter was very long. Tours that had visited the park in the morning were now having lunch. The plan according to our guide, was to visit the rainforest part where the animals were and then take an old amphibious army duck vehicle for a half hour ride through  the forest and partly in the water.

Bob and I agreed we were more interested in seeing the animals rather than the half hour ride. Plus it would give us a little more exercise walking around. There just wasn’t enough time to do both and to try to get a little lunch. Skipping the ride would give us a leisurely walk through the park. That was our plan.

And it worked. We told our guide we were passing on the ride so he wouldn’t look for us. He was good with that. We grabbed a quick sandwich and some cold bottled water, wolfed it down and then went into the animal park. Turns out it was a good decision.

The koalas were all sleepy as was expected but some of their positions draped over the branches of their trees were amusing to say the least. The kangaroos and wallabies were allowed to wander about. There weren’t any of the large red kangaroos but the ones that were there were quite content to wander among the guests and stop to be pet and pose for pictures. A few kids were feeding some of them but we passed on wasting time trying to go back to buy food. We’ve fed roos before.

Kookaburra

The cassowary remained hidden among the bushes and trees in her exhibit. We tried twice to find her but couldn’t. We did find the Tasmanian devil lurking about behind some plants. He really doesn’t look as mean as his reputation.

The real score was a chance to watch attendants feed one of the large crocodiles. There were two large crocs that had been taken in because there was no room for them at some other shelter. A large fish was attached to a rope on a pole and hung over the head of the croc. He jumped several times trying to get it. The attendants said it was to help him get exercise, not to tease him. If they didn’t, he would get too fat just laying around and eating.

The amazing thing was the deep clap noise that his jaws made when he snapped at the fish. It doesn’t sound quite as deep in the video I took. Those massive jaws finally clamped around the fish and pulled it off of the rope. Was that a big smile or what?

We revisited the koalas and then walked out to the large porch area where the bus was parked. The driver invited us to go ahead and get on the bus but we sat for a while longer until a few more in our group showed up. A half hour ride back down the mountain, this time in A/C and comfortable seats and we were back to our tender dock just in time to board a tender to return to the ship.

There is always an afternoon tea on the ship at three o’clock. If you want to do it a bit more formally, you can go to the Queen’s Room where tables are covered in white cloths, teacups and accessories set out and waiters serve tea and scones and little sandwiches. Less formal is the Artisan’s Foodhall up on deck nine (think buffet) where you can get your own tea and scones and sandwiches and sit by a window enjoying the view. I find that a little more relaxing even though there isn’t any live music. That’s where we headed when we arrived back at the ship. Our quick lunch needed a little refresh.

While I didn’t have to drape myself over a tree branch, I did drape myself over the bed for a bit before dinner. I may not be as old as the rainforest but I do need a nap now and then.

World Cruise--Brisbane Is Closed, Hello Airlie Beach

This wasn’t our first cyclone. A few years ago we were in Tokyo when the edge of a cyclone passed by. We lost several umbrellas in the wind trying to get our grandkids to the movie theater. But Cyclone Alfred tracking through the Coral Sea and expected to hit the coast of Queensland as a category 2 completely shut down the port of Brisbane in preparation.  Sadly, Brisbane was one of the places in Australian we have not visited.

The ship’s itinerary scrambled as well as the entertainment staff in trying to reorganize our journey. We immediately got an extra sea day as we headed up the coast trying to skirt the edge of the cyclone. There was one really rough night but surprisingly it calmed quickly the next day. Nice job, Captain!

After our day early stop in Airlie Beach, we would also arrive a day early in Yorkey’s Knob (near Cairns) and then after a few sea days, have an extra day in Darwin. The important thing is we faired well in getting around the cyclone. From the reports I saw online, the Crown Princess did not. They hit a couple of nasty swells and sent things flying. Several were injured.

Along the way, we picked up a local pilot/guide who would be with us through the area that is bordered by the Great Barrier Reef. I read that it takes a cruise ship about 40 total hours to make its way up that coastal reef area. We slowed our speed and I assume that was partly because of the protection of the reef. I'm sure there are lots of other regulations we know nothing about but that pilot is there to be sure they are all followed.

Our initial disappointment in missing our koala excursion in Brisbane was eased with the beautiful sunny day that greeted us in Airlie Beach when we arrived. We had not planned any excursions for the day other than to wander on our own. I found that Airlie had a freshwater lagoon that was free to swim for anyone so we packed our towels and sunscreen and set out.

Tendering 3,000 people again was another challenge but Airlie had provided large boats that could hold 300 each so at least it went a little more smoothly than the last tender port. Some who were on excursions to the Great Barrier Reef were actually picked up straight from the ship.

The day was already hot and humid mid morning as we made our way around the boardwalk and the beach to the lagoon. Since it was a Tuesday, the lagoon was not terribly busy and by the time we arrived, the water looked absolutely inviting.

This is the time of year that the box jellyfish are plentiful in the ocean waters so the beach only had one swimmer that we could see. The box jellyfish get their name from the main body that is shaped like a box but then it gets its reputation from the deadly long tentacles that wrap around its prey. It can be deadly to humans but at the very least it is extremely painful. They liken it to being burned with a hot iron. No thanks. The lagoon was appreciated.

We swam/lounged in the water for about an hour until Bob said he was wrinkling. I pointed out that he was wrinkling before he got in the water. I’m not sure he appreciated that.

After packing up our things, we headed for the main street to find a place for lunch. We found a typical Australian beach town restaurant, all open air with lots of fans. After we ordered a pizza and drinks, Bob asked for a WiFi password. “There is no WiFi here,” the waitress said abruptly. “Why not?” Bob asked. “Because it’s the middle of nowhere.” She turned and went to place our order.

It was true. Airlie is sort of in the middle of nowhere along the coast. No large cities nearby. Almost like being in the outback but a bit more civilized. Lots of shops and restaurants and travel shops offering all sorts of tours. It would be a neat place to spend a few days and explore the area.

Thankfully the line for the tender formed inside a fan cooled area in the shade. We were pretty much heated up again from our walk, so much so that my bathing suit was as dry as it could be in all the humidity.

The ship’s A/C was a welcome relief and I fought off a nap in order to take advantage of the somewhat empty laundry room. It has been the most frustrating part of our cruise to have to try to judge when you might get a free washer/dryer. People line up for them. I scored a free machine and quickly did a load so we are all good for the next week. But missing my nap saw me falling asleep at the dinner table. I passed on the evening entertainment and was sound asleep by nine. I’m so old.

World Cruise--Our Overnight Stay in Sydney

The signal for an announcement from the bridge came around nine at night as we sat in the Queen’s Room watching the ballroom dancing. As most everyone else thought, we wondered what sort of medical emergency might have happened. The last time, the call was for O positive blood donors. This time it was the ship that needed some help.

As the captain said, there were technical problems that had slowed the progress of the ship and our arrival in Sydney would be significantly delayed. Our original arrival time was 6:30 AM. Now it was estimated to be three and a half hours later at ten o’clock. There was never an explanation for the technical difficulties but everyone was now scrambling to readjust their plans for excursions and/or flights home as there were a little over 1300 who were disembarking.

Added to all the confusion and reorganization was the need to have face to face immigration which meant that everyone on board had to leave the ship and go through immigration personally, all 3,000 passengers. And add to that there would be a crew drill for the benefit of the Australian Coast Guard, a health inspection and I believe one more official act that I can’t remember. I really felt for the crew and staff. What a nightmare day.

Our plans for visiting the Blue Mountains were scrapped. The train ride would have been two hours each way and we would have needed at least three hours to tour and eat lunch. Now our immigration appointment time had been changed to 12:30 and it was moving slowly. We ended up eating lunch before we showed up for our “face to face” and decided that once off the ship, we would look for a harbor cruise instead.

The good news of the day was that we didn’t have to get up at five in the morning to see the sail in. It was a spectacular event with several tugboats spraying water as we entered the harbor to celebrate the maiden call of the Queen Anne. Cunard is a British cruise line even though it is owned by Carnival so the connection between Great Britain and Australia was properly celebrated.

Our pier was situated between the iconic Sydney Harbor Bridge and the equally iconic Opera House. It was right next to the ferry docks where the ferries could take you most any place you wanted to go in the area. At the end of the pier was the Circular Quay station for the metro line which is where we would have caught a ride to the Central Station for the train to the mountains. Sigh.

The day was heating up by the time we exited the immigration area and started around Circular Quay to the ferry docks and the area where there were harbor cruises offered. We found one that was an hour and a half long and leaving soon. It turned out to be a perfect choice. We sat by open windows and enjoyed the sunshine and refreshing breeze as we listened to the commentary of our tour guide. The harbor tour reminded us a lot of the tour that is offered in Miami where the boat travels around the harbor and points out the homes of the rich and famous. Some of those here included Nicole Kidman and Russell Crowe.

The Sydney area is densely populated around the large harbor. It explains all the ferries that are constantly back and forth providing easier access to the outlying areas for commuters as well as tourists. The other traffic in the harbor included hundreds of sailboats of all sizes. There were quite a few racing sails that were practicing for regattas. We passed one huge sailboat that our guide said was one that does the race to Hobart in Tasmania, which is usually a two day sail.

On Saturday (we had an overnight in port), we took a ferry to Manly Beach. The slower ferry was a twenty minute ride which was nice because we could see a lot of the sailboat races that were going on. The harbor is so busy it amazed me how the ferries threaded their way through all the sailboats which don’t turn so quickly depending on the wind and direction of it.

Manly beach was a mass of people. The waves coming in were large enough to attract hundreds of surfers. We had thought about taking off our shoes and wading along the water’s edge but I was afraid we’d get run over by a surf board. There was a section where the waves were not breaking quite as bad and it was crowded with “wave jumpers”. You couldn’t really swim in the breaking waves.

Further down the beach, it appeared that the lifesaving club was doing drills or training. There were groups of them with various lifesaving paraphernalia working together. They were dressed in uniforms of sorts but as Bob remarked, “It’s not Bay Watch.”

And even further down the beach was an organization set up for a beach volleyball competition. There must have been at least 25 “courts” set up. We watched in awe as some of the players deftly moved through the sand to bat the volleyball back over the net.

The beach town is interesting and we wandered around a bit. There was a craft market set up in the middle of the pedestrian area. After a brewed Starbucks and a stop for a few supplies we needed, we made our way back to the ferry. We were a bit like salmon heading the wrong way downstream instead of upstream. The beach was obviously getting more crowded.

Back on the ship, we dressed a little earlier for dinner. The sail away was scheduled for five and our side of the ship was going to be able to catch the last glimpses of the Opera House as we turned and sailed out. We settled ourselves on our balcony for the view. The trip out to the ocean took about a half an hour before the harbor pilot was left off and we were on our way out into the open ocean.

Our next adventure could include skirting the Cyclone Alfred which is making its way down the east coast of Queensland. The captain explained that we would try to “get ahead of the game” and arrive a bit early in Brisbane, our next port of call. We’ll hope for the best.

World Cruise--Tauranga and Bay Of Islands

One of my fondest cruise memories is of Tauranga, New Zealand. The first time we visited on a ship, the town was in their cruise port infancy. They were so excited to have a cruise ship visit that at the end of the day they had encouraged the whole town to get out and line the shore as we departed to wish us well on our journey. At least I think it was for that. Maybe they were happy to see us go.

The town sits on a narrow finger of land extending out into the sea with beaches on both sides. The ocean side was breezy with waves large enough for some surfers to enjoy. The harbor side beach was calm and inviting to many by the afternoon for a swim.

At the end of the finger of land is Mount Maunganui, a 760 foot high “mountain” with a lookout at the top. Actually it is also an inactive volcano. This wasn’t our first visit so we knew that we didn’t have to climb up to enjoy and explore the mountain. There is a track (trail) that circles the mountain and is an easy walk that takes about an hour or so depending on how often you stop to enjoy the views of the water, neighboring outcrops of land, waves crashing against the rocks or even a couple of snorkelers after mussels or clams or something they were putting into their netted bag.

Once around the mountain, we followed the very nice boardwalk along the beach, taking in the fresh sea air and enjoying the mild but sunny temperatures. A UV index was posted by the access to the beach. It was reading a UV2 which according to their scale posted meant you didn’t need protection. My dermatologist would have had something to say about that I’m sure.

At lunchtime, we returned to the ship which was relatively empty since so many had taken long excursions for the day. There were quite a few that went to Rotorua, the city with all the hot springs and geysers, or “geezers” as our tablemates called them. Apparently that’s how it’s pronounced in England and Scotland. I had to chuckle every time they said they were going to see the geezers. Eventually I told them how we pronounced it and that geezers in America meant old men.

We relaxed the rest of the day. This was a stretch of four port days and we had one more to go. But I couldn’t resist another walk later in the afternoon. The weather was just too nice. I didn’t want to waste it. During the walk, we watched groups of teenagers competing in some long boat races. Lots of energy in those kids.

The next day found us anchoring out in the Bay Of Islands north of Auckland. It is another beautiful area of New Zealand and the place we stayed a few days to start our drive around the whole of New Zealand several years ago. The plan was to find our way to Haruru Falls and then to the wharf in Paihia to take the ferry to Russell and hopefully find the green lipped mussels we had enjoyed there in the past.

After almost an hour wait, we were able to get on a tender to shore. With 3,000 people all wanting a ride, it takes a while and excursions have priority. The tender dock was near the Waitangi treaty grounds where a significant treaty was signed with the Maori. There was the beginning of a track (trail) to Haruru falls just up the road from where we were so we headed out for that ignoring the admonition from the cruise port information lady who said it was an hour and a half out and the same coming back. We’d done that much walking before. Sounded like fun.

The trail was wonderful, a little up and down and rocky in parts but not bad at all and shaded most of the time although the temps were very comfortable anyway. At the three kilometer marker I was beginning to feel it though. No way to turn around it was only halfway. I popped the two Tylenol I’d put in my pocket into my mouth and downed them with some of my water.

At the four kilometer marker we got good news. The falls were only another kilometer away. At the beginning the sign had read six kilometers so it was really only five kilometers. I felt better already. Our information lady had promised restrooms at the falls. What she didn’t tell us was that they would be locked. A little disconcerting when we finally arrived.

We took a couple of pictures of the falls and watched a group of kayakers reach the falls and turn around. Bob got out his phone and opened his Uber app. “No available cars.” That would be the message several more times when he checked along the way as we followed the route mapped by Google to get us to Paihia, an hour and a half more of walking. This time there were a few more inclines but a nice paved pathway next to the busy road we had to follow. Half of it was in the shade but then the path crossed the street and we were in the sun for the rest of the walk.

Bob kept apologizing. He thought for sure there would be Uber service. At one point, I knew for sure we weren’t going to Russell for mussels. I told him so. The closer we got to Paihia, the more I hated the thought of giving up on those mussels. As we walked, I googled where to get the green lipped mussels in Paihia and sure enough, they were available at the wharf which is where we had to go to get the shuttle to the tender dock.

I was almost afraid to sit down at the patio restaurant. I was afraid I wouldn’t get back up. We had been walking for more than four hours with very little break. Whoever said the walk was an hour and a half one way had longer legs and a faster pace.

We had a bit of a wait for the mussels we ordered but it was a welcome rest. The mussels arrived and were every bit as good as remembered although this restaurant’s sauce had a bit more spice to it. Still, the mussels were large and tender and I was so glad we were able to get them.

The shuttle bus was only a couple hundred feet from where we ate and we got in line. They had quite a few shuttle buses for us so as soon as one was full, the next one pulled up. Well done Cunard and Paihia!

We boarded ship and collapsed on the bed for a couple hours before dinner. The next two sea days would be very appreciated.

World Cruise--The Land Of The Kiwis

 We arrived as the sun was rising and spreading its warm rays on the stately buildings of Auckland, New Zealand. Before us was the iconic Sky Tower. The cruise pier could not have been more conveniently located and the welcome to Auckland more spectacular as a tug boat sprayed water into the air to celebrate the maiden call for Queen Anne.

Before breakfast, we walked out on the promenade deck and watched our huge ship apply the “brakes” as it backed into the slip and gently moved to the pier. The shadow of the ship crawled up the side of the Hilton Hotel that is on the Princess Wharf. I wondered if those staying in the hotel were going to appreciate looking into the side of the ship for two days. We were due to stay overnight in port.

Our plan, made before the start of our cruise, was to take a ferry to Devonport which sits across the harbor. It is a little town that we had visited once before and since we’d done all the city tours in the past we opted out of pounding the pavement between the buildings.

The ferry docks were close by on the starboard side of our ship and a quick ten minute walk. Our hearts sank as we neared and saw a huge line but it turned out that it was the ferry to Waikeke Island which is almost an hour away but a very popular spot with beaches and other points of interest especially with it being a Saturday. Our ferry ride would only take twelve minutes.

Devonport was a little bigger than I remembered but still kind of quaint. One of the missions for the day was to find a hair salon. We walked several blocks and saw at least three barber shops and Bob suggested I could change my hairstyle. I’ve learned to ignore some of those comments. Around a corner, we found two hair salons and I looked them up on my phone. (We had opted into a day of international service from AT&T.) The prices made me gulp but then I remembered that it was NZ dollars and the US cost was only a little more than half of that and still a great savings over what the ship charges.

Luckily they had room for me in the one shop and I only had to wait a half hour. We grabbed a cup of tea at the café across the street and waited it out. A little more than an hour later I paid for my haircut and asked if I could leave a tip. She smiled sweetly and said, "Oh no. We don't ever accept tips." "But you did such a nice job." I insisted. She shook her head, "But thank you." I was feeling pretty good with a decent haircut and the rest of the day before us.

The information center in the ferry building had maps of the town as well as several choices for self guided walks. We picked up one that listed historical places along the waterfront which is lined with a park and we headed out. The last time we had attempted to walk the waterfront there it had started raining and we had even loaned one of our two umbrellas to another couple from the ship we were on who were unprepared. This time though, the weather could not have been nicer.

It turns out we weren’t really that interested in the history so much as enjoying the sunny day with mild temperatures and a breeze that turned a bit windy later but was oh so refreshing. The information lady had pointed out that at the end of the waterfront walk there was a naval museum and a little restaurant. It was a good long walk and by the time we arrived, we were hungry.

Bob had a great bowl of seafood chowder and I opted for a BLAT, a bacon, lettuce, avocado and tomato sandwich. Both servings were huge but we managed to finish it all. Somehow it felt like real food from home. The ship’s food is good but after a while it begins to taste the same.

We meandered a bit through some side streets to get back to the center of town and in doing so passed by two cricket fields. We paused just long enough to watch a couple of hits and try once again to figure the game out. No luck. We moved on.

Back at the ferry dock there was a bit of a delay when one of the scheduled runs was canceled. No panic though. We had all day to get back and as long as we could sit to wait, we were good. When I looked at my phone’s pedometer, I saw we had already walked over five miles.  (It would be closer to seven by the time the day was done.)

Our evening entertainment on the ship was a Maori group who performed many of their traditional practices with sticks and balls on strings and even a love song which seemed a bit out of character for the fierce representation of the warriors. The Maori are the indigenous people of New Zealand, said to be Polynesians who arrived at the island around 1200 AD. They don’t exhibit the soft sweetness of the Polynesian traditions so much in their routines but then they had to be fierce and frightening in order to survive outside attack.

After the show, we went up on one of the top decks to see the city lit up at night. The Sky Tower was a silver silhouette and the Auckland Harbor Bridge was illuminated with multiple colors. A lovely night skyline.

The next morning we started off with what we jokingly refer to as a “laundry excursion.” The free laundry room is always an adventure. It is one of the sore points for many. The ship does not have one on every floor so they are in high demand, especially at the cost of the ship’s laundry. It has been the source of many hard feelings and even some intimidation. People removing laundry from dryers that aren’t done or jumping the line of waiting guests to claim a machine. It was reported by someone that one lady complained to a man who was using more than one washer (there’s supposed to be a limit of one washer/guest). He turned to her and told her he was not someone to mess with, he was dangerous. She reported him to the ship’s security. Don’t know what may have happened then. So far we’ve been okay. Only once found a lady unloading my washer before it was completely done. She never apologized. So, when we showed up at 8AM just as the laundry had opened, I was delighted to see no line out the door and one washer empty. It was a great excursion to begin the day.

By the time we exited the ship to find the Hop On Hop Off bus, it was misting. I hoped the whole day was not going to be like that. The Weatherbug had predicted partly sunny, no rain. When we found the stop for the HOHO, we realized it was the second, not the first, and there was no one there to sell you a ticket. We waited a bit to see if we might buy one on the bus but as we did, I suggested that the real itinerary for the day was the visit to the aquarium. Why not just take an Uber? It was probably cheaper and wouldn’t take as long to get there. We’d seen everything on this route once before.

So that’s what we did. It was about $10USD and a delightful driver who dropped us off at the entrance to the SEALIFE Kelly Tarlton Aquarium. Sometimes it pays to be old. We got senior rates to get in.

The aquarium is very nice and has a lot especially for kids to interact with. The feature attraction, at least for us, was the penguin exhibit just after you first enter. It is the only exhibit I recall of all the aquariums we have visited that has a collection of King Penguins, the really large ones that are harder to reach in Antarctica. They are so much fun to watch. Personalities emerge if you study them for a bit. I’m sure it’s fun for the caretakers.

There were a few other surprises. Several species of jellyfish were displayed that were new to us. I’m always entranced by the grace of the jellyfish as they dance through the water.

We came to a tank that had what appeared to be strange seahorses. They were called sea dragons and looked a bit like the leafy sea dragons we’ve seen but without the “leaves”. There were the usual tanks of colorful marine fish, large groupers, sharks and rays in a walkthrough clear tunnel and one large tank were we sat for a few minutes and watched some large sea turtles swim slowly back and forth. Marine exhibits can be mesmerizing.

After our aquarium visit, we walked along the water to Mission Bay. It has a nice beach area and plenty of beachside restaurants that line the main street. We finally settled on one that had a special on sandwiches and opted to split a club sandwich that was out of this world good.

Another Uber, a short walk to a convenient store for popcorn and nuts (I was craving popcorn. Bob needed cashews) and we were back at the ship. We would sail away at seven but not out of New Zealand. Tomorrow Tauranga!

World Cruise--More Tonga

The major portion of our excursion in Tonga was to be spent at Oholei Beach and Hina Cave. We drove down a graveled road and past a huge construction area and my heart began to sink. What was this place going to be like? We had to spend a lot of time here. Now I had done my homework before we ever booked this excursion way back before Christmas. I’d found reviews and even a video on the cave and beach experience. But now, I was beginning to wonder if what I’d seen was really going to happen.

The bus let us out right in front of the entrance to the “#1 Restaurant & Resort Oholei Beach”. The welcome could not have been warmer as the hostess in a beautiful deep sapphire blue skirt and top stood at the entrance and welcomed each of the visitors from the three buses that had delivered them. Inside were lots of tables, all covered in white cloths with pretty floral centerpieces set on a flowered cloth runner. It was a very large reception hall on two levels. Not a five star place (Bob pointed out later a set of wooden slats holding up a bulge in the ceiling) but very nice.

We all took seats and were entertained by the owner and his small band which included his youngest son (of eight children: “When you don’t have a TV” shrug) on the drums. He explained that a guide would take us to the cave and relate the history and legends of the cave. Then later, as some decided to start to the cave on their own, he said a guide would meet us there. So we started out.

The cave was 60 stone steps down to the beach and our group gathered inside the huge cave. This was what I had seen in the video but as our guide began to talk to us we learned that the traditional show that always took place in there could no longer happen. A tsunami in 2022 had completely cleaned out all the staging and lighting, etc. for any receptions or shows that used to take place there.

A rock formation that looked like a sleeping woman was said to be from a lost love. She turned to stone as she waited for her lover to return. He’d gone to Samoa. At least that’s the synopsis of the legend.

We didn’t spend a lot of time inside. It was just a great big cave at that point. We walked out to the beach where several people had already plunged into the water. I had packed a beach towel in case I wanted to walk on the water’s edge but I could see globs of seaweed and decided I’d wait for a little nicer beach. It didn’t stop others. I suspect many were the Europeans who were up at four a.m. to swim every morning in the outdoor pool onboard.

It was getting warmer and even the breeze was not helping as we climbed up the 65 steps (Bob claimed there were more going up than coming down). It was a slow go but we finally made it and found our seats inside again and purchased a bottle of cold water.

The band was still singing and playing but it soon paused so that the owner could give his testimony of how Jesus Christ had helped him through all the difficult times in his life. The “resort” was a family inheritance. His parents had owned it and ran it until his mother took ill and there was  no dialysis treatment for her on Tonga. He moved his parents and his family all to Australia where, with the treatments, his mother lived another 22 years. He then moved back to Tonga and saw the disarray the resort had fallen into. After much prayer for direction, they decided to clean it up and try to restore it. At this point, his children, several of whom had started entertainment careers gave up their lives in Australia to help their parents rebuild.

That would have been a great story right there but then came a cyclone, and another cyclone, and maybe even a third. Each time through prayer, he said, God answered and they rebuilt. In 2022 however it was even more devastating because of the tsunami that killed three of his workers and critically injured another. But God was still good. He sent World Central Kitchen that provided the help for him and several other restaurants in the area to cook over 3,000 meals a day for survivors.

Now I’m not sure exactly but I think because of that, someone helped by investing in their building of the resort. The plans are for a multi-million dollar construction project which was what we saw the beginning of as we entered. All of this story was interspersed with his constant praise for Jesus.

An invitation was extended for us to go outside to see a coconut demonstration where a young man quickly scampered up a coconut palm and cut two down. He opened them on a pick that was anchored to the ground. It was a little rough go since the coconuts were not entirely ripe but our hostess explained that every bit of the coconut was used for something.

From the palm tree we moved to the cooking pits where three pigs were roasting on spits in one. In the other were covered aluminum trays of food that had been cooking for a while underneath a covering of palm leaves. We sampled the steaming hot lamb, chicken, taro and sweet potato, all served on large banana leaves.

Back inside it took a little more time and the inside food was ready. It was quite a banquet and included one of the roast pigs. I was very surprised as the description of the tour said we were only to get some local fruit. This was an amazing banquet and was preceded with the owner saying grace.

After we were almost finished eating, the two sisters sang a couple of songs. I could see where they would have had entertainment careers. Their voices were amazing. Then the traditional dancers took over and we watched with awe as they explained and performed their motions and music. The women don’t sway their hips like the Hawaiian hula. The message of the song is communicated more with hand motions which were very delicate and graceful.

The owner announced that he had saved the best for last and in the back of the banquet hall appeared a young man of about ten years with a baton of fire. He managed that thing expertly, twirling and balancing, and even with some comedy attached. Quite an entertainer himself.

The staff was lined up as we left to say goodbye to each of us and I had the feeling that our afternoon had been more a gathering of friends, maybe even family, as we were warmly wished safety and blessings on our way to the buses.

Back at the ship, the morning dancers were back to entertain us and send us on our way as the ship left the pier and began its trip to Auckland.

The memories of the excursion and Tonga are going to last a long time.

 

World Cruise--Samoa And Tonga

Five days at sea. It would have been six but we lost February 13 to the International Date Line. Gone forever. Several hours later we would cross the Equator. We were in that little niche where the date line makes a zig zag and the equator is right near it.

Unfortunately there wasn’t much celebrating for me in the Equator crossing. I’m blaming the venison I had for dinner. I’ve never had venison before and decided to try it. I thought it tasted good but I was up all night. Let’s just say I won’t have venison again—at least not for a very long time. I thought I was doing well but the morning of our arrival in Samoa, I woke knowing I was not going to be able to go on our excursion. I was really disappointed but Bob, undaunted, promised to take pictures for me. I thanked him, sent him off and crawled back into bed.

When I surfaced again, I went out on our balcony. It was a pretty hot and humid day so I didn’t linger. There was really no reason to as we were docked at a container port and had no view of anything but shipping containers. I thought perhaps there would be a better view on the other side of the ship so I ventured out with my camera.

There was a little better view but not much. I could see a really pretty church and I took a picture from the ship, walked a little until the promenade deck was blocked because they were using the tenders. I suspect it was for security as they had hung the large banner warning other vessels to keep their distance. I was getting too warm and wondered how Bob was doing. Thankfully I saw him pack two water bottles. I only hoped he remembered to drink them.

When Bob returned, he gave me a full report of his adventure. The small bus had been air conditioned so it wasn’t too bad. They stopped at a few government buildings for pictures and then went on to the Robert Louis Stevenson home. He was a bit disappointed he said. While the restored house is original, nothing else in it was. It was all period furniture that may have looked like his. Or not.

Robert Louis Stevenson home

The real gem for Bob was the church I had seen from the ship. The inside was every bit as beautiful as the outside with wonderful stained glass windows and a lovely wooden paneled ceiling. I would have loved to see it. It was within walking distance but the sun had grown hotter and I didn’t think I could make it.

We said goodbye to Samoa and had another day at sea before arriving at Tonga, our next port of call. In all my research, I couldn’t get a good read on what Tonga would be like. Let’s just say that no one would have been able to describe the beauty and joy of the island.

My first look out the window made my heart swell with pleasure. We were docked at a pier with a long walkway, beautifully bordered by grass, that ended in a pretty building that looked like a welcome center. Below me, but hidden from my view because of the lifeboats, I could hear the Polynesian music. Different than in Hawaii and with a few yelps here and there, almost like a polka party.

I was feeling good and excited for our excursion to begin mid-morning. We received our stickers for our bus assignment and when called, filed out to the buses that were parked in a lot halfway to the big building at the end of the walkway. By the time we entered our bus, it was nearly full and the only choices left were seats in the back or on the wheel wells. Obviously there was not going to be A/C but the windows were open and there was a deliciously cool breeze blowing in.

Our tour guide, Morris, was a hoot. He looked like a college student but was all decked out in proper Tongan fare, a black skirt with a lacey kind of overlay and a black suit jacket. Later he had some sort of head piece made from coconut threads perhaps since they said they used every part of the coconut for all sorts of things like belts and items of clothing.

Our first stop took us round the block and just opposite the ship to the Royal Palace. We were cautioned not to stick our hands through the fencing to take a picture as it was considered very disrespectful. The better picture was actually taken from the ship.

There is a king and queen of Tonga and a royal family. We didn’t get much of the commentary from our guide as he was up front with no microphone and we were in back with the wind whipping in the window making it even noisier. So I can’t tell you much about the royal family as I don’t have enough internet time to research that. (Bob and I have to share our internet time and it gets a little difficult. We can only use one device at a time.)

Five minutes for pictures, which always turns into ten to fifteen by the time you unload and load 47 people, and we were on our way to the Royal Tomb. It was being renovated and there was a large barrier surrounding it so there wasn’t much to see for now.

On to Captain James Cook’s landing spot. Cook, who did a lot of exploring in the South Pacific including Australia and New Zealand, actually visited Tonga three times. He dubbed it the “friendly islands” as he saw a group of people welcoming him and with no animosity or threat. 

The sight at this spot marked where he came ashore on his third and longest visit. There used to be a large banyan tree where it is said he rested often. It since has been destroyed, probably by a cyclone, but a shoot from the tree has been preserved and is being nurtured to replace the large one.

Back on the bus, we were on our way to our major activity of this excursion, the beach and a cave.